Here is a look at the ingredients in wrinkle creams and serums that are scientifically proven to work, they really do decrease fine lines and wrinkles.
Researchers have developed several topical medicinal delivery systems in the past few years and this has lead to unexpected breakthroughs in the cosmeceuticals industry. Now, beautiful silky skin is accessible at reasonable prices, at your favorite department store, drug store and local supermarket.
You should note that these ingredients are not in every product. They are also not appropriate for all skin problems. Once you go over the ingredients and what they do, checking a product’s label will help you recognize whether it matches what you need for your skin.
AHAs
AHAs, less commonly referred to by name (alpha hydroxyl acids), are in numerous moisturizers and other skincare products. AHAs don’t pump up the skin and smooth it out in the ways of an emollient/traditional moisturizer, however – instead, their job is to subtly encourage your skin to shed dull layers (like an exfoliate or mild chemical peel) and revive the appearance of skin by showing off ‘fresh’ layers underneath. These products, though mild, minimize the appearance of wrinkles (from furrowed brows, laugh lines, and even crow’s feet) because they not only take out the emphasis of skin framing creases but also provide traditional moisturizing capabilities – emphasizing dewy, radiant softness.
When you become aware of AHAs in moisturizers, it’s helpful to understand a few things about them. AHAs are discussed in plural because they represent a class of chemical, not a particular acid. Some of these are natural (like citric acid, malic acid, and tartaric acid, each from fruits) and some are synthetic. Among those considered genuinely effective are glycolic acid (usually derived from sugar cane) and lactic acid (from milk); the former is strong and used in a wide array of products besides moisturizers, while the latter is considered milder and more ideal for those with sensitive skin. AHAs can adapt well for use in moisturizers: the concentration of AHAs is regulated so that consumers use much less aggressive strengths than do cosmetologists and doctors. For example, a consumer product would contain a concentration of 10% or less; a cosmetologist’s mild chemical peel, perhaps 20-30%; and, a doctor’s intensive treatment often provides a 50-70% concentration. In the formulation of a silky moisturizer, the approach is to provide a gentle touch; concentrations are generally in the 5-8% range, and a good way to reach this target is to see an AHA ingredient as second or third on the ingredient list. Finally, regarding generally important information, do not look for a product mixing AHAs and sunscreen: the chemicals work in different pH level products. However, don’t skimp on the sunscreen because it requires an additional product; using an AHA strips the moisture and cells, leaving your skin more vulnerable to sun.
Final comments to help you if you want to experiment with AHA treatments:
The ‘best’ concentrations for results are in arguable strengths – and product strengths can vary considerably. While 5-8% may be a good target for use in a moisturizer, ‘boosting’ your skin rejuvenation may require using the moisturizer in conjunction with other treatments for dramatic results.
Brace yourself for a process of searching: common moisturizers may contain a low (and likely ineffective) 3% concentration, yet a high end ‘cosmeceutical’ company product may go well beyond the 5-8% and above 10%. Consumers may even be tempted by high concentration products online - some with the concentrations physicians use and for which they have regimens of treatment. This may lead to the irritations associated with chemical peels. A moisturizer alone is intended as a more subtle and supportive product and should not leads to a bevy of ill effects; that’s why a moisturizer can be an ideal consumer’s choice for trying AHAs.
Glycolic acid and lactic acid, both common in AHA products, have potential side effects. Common examples: glycolic acid may lighten the skin and improve collagen production over time; lactic acid can help your skin retain water. In any case, the process AHAs use may lead to irritation of the skin. Look for the term “buffered” where glycolic acid is used; in many cases, a “buffered” version in a higher concentration may have fewer irritating effects than a “non-buffered” version with a lower concentration.
The nature of improvement from AHAs is temporary – more so in low doses, as in moisturizers.
Retinol
Retinol is the form of Vitamin A which comes from animals (human consume this plus gain vitamin A from our bodies’ production when we consume carotenoids in fruits and vegetables), and recent (spring 2007) research reports show it helps cell turnover in a way which minimizes fine lines in the skin. At the University of Michigan, research specifically defined case studies of improvement for the elderly.
In years past, Retin-A was celebrated for its help with acne; subsequently, many products have taken advantage of the link between this form of vitamin A and skin improvements. A variety of expensive and inexpensive products across the market incorporate retinol, though many showcase it only as a mild partner with other ingredients. The latest research, though, indicates more potent and focused moisturizers may provide benefits purely from retinol-based moisturizers.
Topical Use of Antioxidants:
Selenium and Vitamins C and Vitamin E
Often take internally because antioxidants stave off aging by combating free radicals (which destroy our cells), external use of selenium and vitamins C and E is an exciting area of research. These three antioxidants are among the rarest in that each is a feasible ingredient for topical applications – and therefore a complement to moisturizers. Some products already contain these, but their effectiveness is questionable. Researchers are eager to translate these supplements’ benefits for consumers. In 2007, the benefits – and their limits – are clearer than they used to be.
Selenium
Selenium in the form of L-selenomethionine has proven topical results in animals. It protects the skin from UV damage and may delay the development of skin cancer. However, studies still need to be done on humans before this may be translated into effective formulas.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C is laudably encouraged in our diets, but in recent years its topical value has been scrutinized – specifically, in moisturizers. The difficulty is that vitamin C loses effectiveness when it mixes with oxygen, so ideal formulations are yet to be refined for consumer use. Once those formulas arrive, this will provide a great opportunity to rebalance the skin’s stores of this important nutrient: C supports collagen, which keeps the skin supple.
Vitamin E
Finally, the best news: vitamin E has been proven topically effective for reducing sun exposure and even for limiting the production of cancer-causing cells. This is specifically useful in increasing and maintaining resilience of the skin.
Copper Peptides
Copper peptides may provide subtle but real results in moisturizers. Initially used for healing, researchers recognized the peptides’ possible adaptation for rejuvenation. The benefits of the copper peptides are complex but essentially relate to the healing of skin. That said, as a support system to skin, they may most ideally work as a follow-up for healing when an irritating or exfoliating process has been used (dermabrasion, for example, or AHAs). Copper peptides are excellent at soothing skin which has been irritated, so moisturizers which include it are effective - especially in repairing skin damage from imperfections and damages caused by day-to-day difficulties, ranging from acne to sun and wind damage to irritation from detergents (such as SLS) found in household products (like shampoos). More research is being done to see whether the benefits of copper peptides extend to improvement for undamaged skin.
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 (PP-3)
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 (PP-3) is sometimes considered revolutionary: it not only stimulates collagen production to help the skin’s layers maintain nutrients despite thinning but also improves skin’s elasticity by stimulating the way water circulates within it (specifically, synthesizing an important chemical called hyaluronic acid and generally stimulating the glycan network, which stores and circulates water). The implications are far-reaching: previously used for skin repair (for stretch marks), PP-3 gained fans quickly. Soon, fans were successfully using it for their faces and other areas of the body. Over time, it has been shown to produce statistically significant results; not only is the chemical change obvious to scientists, but the visible changes have also been quantified. Not only has visible roughness been improved with multi-peptide treatment; deep and moderate wrinkles are also said to have over 50% visible improvement. Other claims are that its restorative technique does not have the irritations of retinol and other abrasive techniques for skin improvement. Finally, with its stimulation of healthy substances in skin, PP-3 provides noticeable thickening/plumping of skin – again, this is compared to retinol with more favorable gains.
Wrinkle Cream Ingredients That Work